Balance + Shoulder fit
We at B&TAILOR spend most of our time getting the fit of the shoulder and the balance of the jacket right, during fittings (especially at baste and forward fittings).
What I mean by the shoulder fit? The shoulder of the jacket being laid at an angle perpendicular to the ‘overall’ angle of the wearer’s shoulder, and this angle is not 2 dimensional. It also has to account for the wearer’s clavicle shapes and positions but also adjoining flesh and its position and angles in respect to the rest of the upper body. Any bumps or hollows will have to be also accounted for and smoothed out the best they can be.
The balance of the jacket does not simply mean that either end is too short or too long (that is only one of the consequences of the incorrectly balanced jacket). The correct balance is achieved, in a simplistic sense, when a jacket is in perfect balance with the wearer’s stance, perfectly accounting for his or her posture (forward, back or neutral) and the body contours- so that the jacket sits squarely and firmly on the wearer from the collar to the shoulders to the rest, and all the panels of the jacket is in the right angle/position to the body.
The main reason that we do fittings is to achieve the above plus the sleeve pitch (will be discussed on a separate post) right, every time and all the time - one of the main differences to MTM garments that are pre-made.
I have described the both shoulder fit and the balance in a way that I personally think that it would make sense to a lot of people however there are many more aspects of the fit and balance that warrant further discussions (for people who are more interested in such topics).
I am planning to illustrate the above in more depth with actual baste fitting examples in future.