B&TAILOR Shoulder - the Seamline
Many Bespeakers opt for padless shoulders nowadays in preference to padded ones.
However this construction (many also refer to it as ‘deconstructed’) requires, for most people, a shoulder seam line to not extend along the natural shoulder line but end further back from the top of the sleeve head as depicted in the above. The reason for that being is that the canvass needs to extend further back covering the entire shoulder over to the back, mimicking the effect of a shoulder pad in order to hide/lesson the effects of imperfections on the shoulder line that are quite prevalent in the modern-day society. Another technique is to extend the chest canvass passed the shoulder seam (normal shoulder seamline) that runs straight from the collar to the top of the sleevehead to achieve the similar effect.
The functional side of the above shoulder seamline aside, I quite like the look of it, especially the curve.